Assistant Professor Mark Burman (College of Creative Future Talent, Daejin University) 

As an assistant professor at Daejin University, I have been fascinated by the teachings of the Daesoon religion for some time, and have often wondered what it would be like visiting the headquarters of Daesoon Jinrihoe in Yeoju. Until a few weeks ago, however, I hadn’t had the opportunity to visit nor learn about the religion firsthand. Fortunately, on a chance encounter at the university, I bumped into an American Ph.D. student, Jason Greenbergen, who specializes in East Asian Religions and as it happens is now doing his doctorate on the teachings and practices of Daesoon Jinrihoe. After becoming acquainted with Jason and expressing my interest in the Daesoon order, he contacted his colleagues in Yeoju and together arranged the most wonderful weekend trip to the Daesoon Jinrihoe’s Yeoju Headquarters Temple Complex in and the surrounding area for both my partner, Yujin, and myself.

We left Seoul early on a Saturday morning and took the subway to Yeoju where we were met with the warmest welcome by the Manager of the International Affairs Team, Cha Ikje, and Jason at Yeoju Station. After friendly greetings, we were then taken to the spectacular Yeoju Headquarters Temple Complex where we formally met the Director of Religious Research & Edification Department, Director Lee Tae-yeol, for a brief introduction and overview of Daesoon Jinrihoe over tea and coffee. Whilst my Korean is certainly not fluent, we were able to have an enjoyable and relaxed conversation with some helpful translation from Cha Ikje and Jason. After tea, we were then driven to a nearby temple food restaurant named Geolgujaengi, which is famous for its nutritious and healthy vegetarian dishes.

Upon arriving at the guest house, we left our suitcases in the room, and then got changed into traditional Korean attire, Hanboks, which had been kindly provided and made to measure by our kind hosts. Following a few customary pictures adorning the new Hanboks taken by the forever smiling and lovely Dahyeon, we entered the temple complex. Walking around the temples we felt as if we had not only acclimatized with the setting but even more so had gone back in time to a quieter, deeper, more spiritual place. We felt exceptionally privileged to be one of the very few people to roam around such a picturesque sanctuary, and even more fortunate to have Ikje as such a knowledgeable, informative, and accommodating guide. His explanations were extremely detailed and he was able to answer all the questions (and believe me there were many!) that we had. We were able to learn about the historical foundations of the religion from the incarnation of the supreme god, Sangje, as Kang Jeungsan to the Doju, Jo Jeungsan, and leading up to the principal leader, Dojeon, Park Wudang. Through Ikje’s meticulous explanations of the teachings of Kang Jeungsan, we could see how the scriptures have such a profound effect on the lives of Daesoon Jinrihoe followers. 

After the temple tour, we had the genuine honour of being the first visitors to the newly opened Daesoon Jinrihoe museum which had been translated into English by Jason. The museum gave us further insight into the teachings of Kang Jeungsan and how Daesoon Jinrihoe members coexist with others in today’s technologically advanced society. Jason had written the translations in such a clear and concise way that even visitors with no prior knowledge of the Daesoon religion or practices, could enjoy the exhibits and learn about Daesoon Jinrihoe in an interesting and easily accessible way. 

Time had literally flown by and as it was now reaching sunset, we had a short walk around the museum garden before going back to the guest house to relax, wash, and get ready for dinner. After a quick shower and change of clothes, we went to the guest house lounge to meet up with the International Affairs team for an informal dinner. After a few joyful hours of eating, chatting, and playing games, we decided to call it a night, as we had an early start tomorrow.

On Sunday morning, we woke up at 8 am to a breakfast box delivered to our room containing a variety of tasty sandwiches and freshly brewed coffee. After getting ready and eating breakfast, we had our last short walk around the headquarters breathing in the fresh autumn air, before setting off to one of Yeoju's most famous attractions, King Sejong’s burial ground. King Sejong is revered as one of, if not, the most exceptional and influential of Korean rulers of the Joseon Dynasty. King Sejong reigned for over thirty years and has been credited with many important inventions, such as the rain gauge, sundial, water clock, and what is widely believed to be his greatest achievement, the creation of Hangul – the Korean alphabet. Our visit, therefore, to King Sejong’s royal mausoleum is of great interest to Koreans and internationals alike. Here you can visit the tombs of both King Sejong and his wife Queen Soheon. You can learn about the history of the life of King Sejong and can imagine what Korea was like during the early Joseon period. Actually, besides the historical significance of the burial site, the mausoleum is actually located in a spectacular part of Yeoju and is a perfect area to take a walk with your partner, family, or friends. Some of the scenery is quite stunning indeed. Jason and his family joined us for this part, and it was great to see not only the adults enjoying themselves but the kids, too.

Unfortunately, the end of our trip was nearing. We had had such a splendid time, that we didn’t even realise it was almost time to go back to Seoul. The final item on our itinerary was, of course, lunch. Our hosts would never dream of sending us home on an empty stomach (even though I was still pleasantly full from such a delicious breakfast!). 

And so, we had finally come to the end of our Yeoju trip. Ikje and Jason dropped us off at the station and we said our goodbyes, but not farewells! I am sure we will be back again soon. It wasn’t just the generous hospitality we were shown, or the fascinating and ornate temples and museum, or even the beautiful setting of Daesoon Jinrihoe’s Yeoju Headquarters Temple Complex that had made our trip so magnificent. Yujin and I felt we had actually made such a strong bond and genuine friendship with Ikje, Dahyeon, and the others in the International Affairs Team and the Department of Religious Research and Edification who all had worked so hard and tirelessly to make our trip as unforgettable as it was. Ikje and Jason both know my love of the outdoors and hiking, so hopefully, in the new year, we will meet again and go on a hiking pilgrimage together to visit some of Daesoon Jinrihoe's more remote temples amidst nature and the mountains.

Thank you Daesoon Jinrihoe for everything! A massive Kamsahamnida, and see you all again soon!